Due to this method of using ammonium chloride, copper sulfate, and old vinegar, the soil is formed quickly and thickly, some are solid, and some are easy to lose layers when washed with water.
To prevent the soil from falling off and protecting its luster, wax can be used to protect it.
The method is to cut the wax into pieces with a knife, pour it into kerosene, slowly heat it on the fire, the wax gradually dissolves into the kerosene, cool it slightly and pour it into a bottle. After cooling, it will look like cream.
When using, pick out some wax paste, stick it on the cotton ball and knead it evenly.
Use this cotton ball to wipe evenly on the soaked ground. After the kerosene evaporates, a layer of white frost-like wax will be left on the ground.
Gently rub it back and forth with a cotton ball, which not only increases the protective shine, but also prevents the ground from falling off.
If it is not ideal once, you can soak it again and apply wax again.
In short, the number of reciprocations will be determined based on whether it has fallen off and the required gloss.
During the soaking process, if white-green soil is needed and gray-black soil is difficult to turn white, nitric acid can be diluted with water to a weak acid and smeared on the black soil with a pen.
The area bitten by weak acid will gradually turn white-green.
The main material is a method of using thicker shellac paint juice, mixing a few mineral pigments, and dotting the rust color layer by layer.
At this time, a layer of thin varnish or shellac paint should also be sprayed.
In addition, the copper powder method cannot be used to make surface rust.
After making it old, polish the surface of the tire to be smooth and clean, then use a brush dipped in ferric octachloride aqueous solution.
Then use the rough side of the leather scraps to polish it, which will have a worse effect.
The mud turns earthy green and is left to dry.
Or spray the surface with thin shellac paint to cover it completely, but it should be too thick. If it is too thick, the texture of the paint will affect the effect.
Use beanbag cloth (thin cotton cloth) to wrap into a cotton ball.
The first step is to prepare ammonia and copper carbonate in a ratio of 90:10.
But the time can be too long. Observe at any time. Take it out as soon as you are satisfied. Rinse with clean water to remove the floating color and dry beforehand.
Use a brush to apply it several times under the object. The color should be fully applied and even.
Dip the colored juice under the object, cover it with slow-drying varnish, and rub it with an old cloth to bring out the luster.
It is best to choose a short vat or porcelain altar. The rim should be small so that it is easy to put in utensils of different shapes, and it should be easy to cover with a plastic sheet to prevent evaporation.
The paint is first ground finely in a large mortar and then mixed using a large saucer.
Then add earth rust (the method of earth rust is the same as below), and you can achieve a realistic effect.
This kind of soil has clear layers and dark and light rust colors, which is more natural.
Add a lot of ultramarine and white powder, and pour the patent leather juice to make it light green.
After rusting, locally compare the color of the original part, and mix the color juice with paint chip (shellac) juice (the color juice mixing method will be introduced in detail earlier).
Note that the liquid must be placed in a suitable container so that it can be used continuously for a long time.
Copper acetate, ammonium chloride, glacial acetic acid, smoked vinegar, etc. are prepared into a medicinal solution in a ratio of 8:8:8:76. When soaked in the copperware, a green base will form on the surface.
The fourth method is to use a new copper vessel that is specially soaked in brass and cast with a green base on the surface.
First make the skin color, and then use the "spotting method" to make raised rust spots.
Pay attention to apply it a seventh time before it dries.
In addition, if the utensil is made of copper, it can be soaked in warm water with potassium sulfide dissolved in it.
This method is particularly effective for fumigating copper.
This substance is a lumpy yellow medicine. It is first soaked in water and put into liquid in a bottle. It is not corrosive. Be careful not to splash it under clothes.
Then soak it in a strong sulfuric acid solution of 4 to 10 g/L for 5 to 15 seconds.
Then use persulfate alkaline solution to oxidize the utensils.
Then apply wax paste and soak until the desired color is achieved.
Then it is served with off-white juice, mainly pine smoke with a little white powder.
Before the rust color of the plucked paint dries, rub it. Before the paint dries, use an old coarse cloth and the leather surface to rub it repeatedly on the surface, or use an agate press to polish it to create the antique gloss effect.
In order to improve the corrosion resistance and discoloration resistance of the bronze surface, the utensils before polishing can be dip-coated with varnish, and a large amount of benzooctazole (copper etching agent) is added to the varnish.
Repair and imitate antique bronze wares handed down from the Ming and Qing dynasties to modern times. These wares have an elegant bronze color and are beautiful. They can be plated to create an antique appearance.
Dip the toothbrush in the juice, hold the toothbrush in one hand, and use a large knife in the other hand to stir the toothbrush, and pluck the rusty color under the utensils.
If the rust spots are ideal, the time can be extended appropriately.
Brush off the dry floating soil with a nylon shoe brush, leaving a little powdery dry rust and grayish white background on the surface. Where it falls off, the layering is very weak, and it looks natural.
The main pigments include more than 20 kinds of sand green, magenta green, magenta green, ultramarine, chapter dandelion, red soil, pine smoke, silver beads, white powder, floor yellow, stone yellow, gold powder, etc.
The seventh step is to use an oil painting nozzle to spray a layer of slow-drying thin varnish.
Before the paint film dries, it can be rusted.
Especially if the tire is thin, the parts are large, there are no big holes, slits and other utensils, you should pay more attention.
The eighth method is a chemical aging method that is commonly used today and is more complex and more effective.
For the first color, put an appropriate amount of sand green into the dish.
Apply on the surface of the object and turn it white immediately before applying. Rinse off the surface floating liquid with clean water and let it dry before applying.
If you leave it in for a few days, the object will become brittle and break when moved.
That is, put the copper powder (powder) filed with a file outside the fumigant (see the first step), mix it with a little nitric acid, apply it under the utensil with a brush, and cover it with a piece of wet sack;
Rinse the utensils in the mud and place them in a certain place or cover them with wet sacks for less than a day.
Apply a layer of patent leather juice before drying to increase the adhesion of the surface color.
This method is used for the replacement of copperware and ironware, and the surface distressing of tin-lead-antimony alloys, fiberglass, and plaster.
If you want to produce some blue rust spots, green-yellow, green-blue paint, you can tie it with a rope and hang it in the container, and smoke it for about 8 hours, then blue rust spots will naturally appear.
The seventh method is the bronze coloring method of modern bronzes.
For small utensils, you can make a thicker solution, dip a brush into the solution and smear the surface. Repeat the application. The color will become darker each time, and it will turn into a grayish white background after a while.
If batches of commemorative coins are put into the liquid, the bronze color will be generated in 2 to 3 minutes.
Before chemical oxidation, perform mechanical polishing according to the shape, or rub it with an old coarse cloth.
In short, compare the base and parts of the original, dip it in the color juice and pluck a little.
To replenish the surface of ingots or new utensils, file them smooth before plating them with copper.
The copper powder and the chemical solution gradually react chemically, and the surface of the utensil becomes green rust. Observe the rust until you are satisfied.
Use the same method to prepare red copper, blue-green, and earthy yellow juice.
After applying one color, make it slightly moist, and then spray another rust color. The colors should be in natural contact with each other.
Stir chemicals such as ammonium chloride into the mud and add a little salt.
For example, for repair and replacement, make some red paint antique, green and white antique paint bases based on the original ones.
Observe the color during operation. When you reach a satisfactory color, you should immediately rinse the surface with clean water and dry it, otherwise the color will continue to get darker.
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Pay attention to soaking during operation, the fumigation time should be too long.
Especially when copperware is soaked in the solution for a day and night, the surface will become white.
Wiping the surface with wax paste before can also regenerate some rust color.