Because the dyehouse pollutes water and soil quite a lot, Xu Chen chose the site of the factory on the bank of the Jicang River, three miles down from the south gate.
There is a small stream here that just flows into the Jicang River.
The factory building is also relatively simple, just build a few pergolas out of wood, and simply surround them with fences to prevent wild wolf snakes. Inside the pergola, use ceramic bricks and lime mortar to build several small two-meter-square dye pools, and then prepare some stone mortars.
, drying rack, pottery basin and other simple tools are enough.
Although the dyeing workshop was quickly repaired, currently only a group of Ba women can dye cloth.
Xu Chen originally wanted to arrange for Thirteenth Aunt and several adult women to be in charge of the dyeing workshop, but then there would be no one to manage the Ba people in Gonghuo Basin, so he could only have people row back and call in more people from the Ba people.
Several women who were proficient in dyeing cloth and sewing clothes.
After being busy like this for half a month, the dyeing workshop was finally fully in place.
The person who took over the management of the dyeing shop was Aunt Qi. Her hair seemed to be graying, but she was actually less than forty years old. It was just that the difficult life in this era made these women and men age very early.
However, although her hair has begun to turn gray, Qi Aunt's mental state is still very full thanks to the abundant food and clothing she has had over the years.
She also has a loud voice when doing things, because she is her mother's daughter and inherited her mother's loud-voice gene.
After the technical personnel were in place, Xu Chen selected seven or eight ingenious young women from the Ba tribe and other tribes to help. In order to get the dyeing workshop on the right track as soon as possible, Xu Chen specially allocated a thousand yuan of start-up capital for the dyeing workshop, from the palace.
The warehouse had people carefully select 500 pieces of linen of good quality, and then announced the purchase of various plant species used for printing and dyeing through the Yizheng Palace.
Because most of these plants have no names and can neither be eaten nor used. They are almost all weeds and thorns. Xu Chen could only ask Aunt Qi, Aunt Thirteen and other women of the Ba tribe to collect some of them and then place them near the King's City.
After getting to know the tribe, go looking for it.
A few days passed like this, and after the first batch of printing and dyeing materials was almost ready, the dyeing workshop officially started.
In the past, cloth dyeing among the Ba people was a small matter. When women wanted to dye cloth, they would carry baskets on their backs to the riverbanks and hillsides to look for plants suitable for dyeing, collect them, pound them home, and apply them directly on the cloth.
, usually only one or two pieces, and most of them are used to dye threads for embroidery, so the colors of these linen and linen threads are very messy. The same plant has the same color, but it is different every time it is dyed because the amount is different.
, the dyeing time is also different.
But regular large-scale printing and dyeing is not possible. It is necessary to ensure that the color of each piece of cloth is uniform and reaches a certain color standard. Therefore, the dyeing time must be consistent and the dyeing method must be exactly the same.
Xu Chen had dyed cloth and twine before because he was the one who taught Ba women how to dye cloth.
But like other technologies, Xu Chen is only responsible for invention and innovation, but is not very responsible for daily production, and he is not very concerned about improving processes.
After the first linen came out, in order to make a splash at the Mother's Day held by the Uzbek people, he sewed clothes and embroidered flowers and made bellybands for a group of aunts to seduce men.
But after the Uzbek people were conquered, he didn't care much about these things. Occasionally, just to show off, he would let women dye some red cloth to make cloaks and headscarves, and he would only dye and dye threads for a group of witches to sew witch skirts.
He doesn't need to worry about things at all.
With the establishment of the Ba Kingdom and the formation of the Forbidden Army, there will be more and more officials in the future. Xu Chen needs to distinguish officials from civilians, the Forbidden Army and ordinary hunters through different colors of clothing.
Although officials and imperial guardsmen are not superior to others, they can reflect their unique and unique identities through their clothing.
Just like using embroidered witch skirts and cloaks of different colors to reflect the noble status and rank of the witch group, this visual distinction makes it easy for people to identify the special group of witches, thereby giving protection and respect, and at the same time also
Form a hierarchical difference between each other, and then slowly get used to this difference, and finally form a hierarchical system from top to bottom.
Therefore, dyeing cloth will be used for special management and power classes such as witches, officials and imperial guards for a long time. Xu Chen not only wanted to make uniform uniforms for the imperial guards, but also made official uniforms representing different levels.
When Xu Chen came to the dyeing workshop with two new tool men, Pu and Jia, on horseback, Qi Aunt and more than ten women were busy.
There are many flowers, plants and raw materials used for printing and dyeing piled in the yard.
After these plants are classified according to the required colors, some take leaves, some take flowers, and some take rhizomes. After cleaning, they are sent to different pergola and chopped with guillotine, and then use stone mortar and pestle to make pulp of different colors.
Use a clay pot to pour the dye into the dye pool.
The conditions were relatively simple, so the dyeing methods were also relatively primitive.
If it is a regular dyeing workshop, these dyes will definitely be squeezed and filtered, and the dye liquor will be purified two or three times, which will be more conducive to evenly dyeing the fabric.
But there is no pigment purification technology at the moment, and the scale is not yet up to the level that requires large-scale purification of dyes. In addition, the requirements for dyeing cloth do not need to be too high, as long as the color is relatively uniform. After all, we are all primitive people, and everyone does not
No matter how particular they were, even if they were given silk brocade, no one would be particular about it. They would be covered in plaster in a day or two.
Xu Chen stayed in the dyehouse for most of the day, watching pots of plant slurry being poured into the dye pool. When the amount was sufficient, he added some lime water and ore powder to mix, and then put bundles of off-white linen cloth
After untying it, throw it into the dye pool, press and stir with a wooden stick, so that the fabric is completely immersed in the slurry.
In order for the fabric to be dyed thoroughly, this soaking process will last for several days.
However, Xu Chen himself did not know the best days of dyeing, so he could only let Qiyi and a group of women decide and sum up their experience.
Now that the dyeing workshop has started, the sewing of clothing will start soon. It is best to complete the production of official uniforms for all the imperial troops and officials before autumn, and then make a unified appearance at the witchcraft conference.
The establishment of a kingdom must also have a new atmosphere. Xu Chen hopes that the country of Pakistan will have different changes every year, so as to reflect the prosperous atmosphere, and clothing and clothing are the things that best reflect the sense of the times.
But compared to dyeing cloth, clothing production is much more troublesome.
First of all, the color, style, style, etc. of military and official uniforms must be determined first, and then women with sufficient craftsmanship and meticulousness must be recruited to cut and sew them, and the quality must be guaranteed. They cannot be as rough and simple as the clothes worn by each tribe.
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Xu Chen, a clothing factory, temporarily placed it in the palace. It was the row of houses where Pi Wu first lived. It was originally a dining room, study room, storage room and lounge, but since the dormitory was repaired, Xu Chen no longer had it.
There are seven or eight large and small houses in a row, and there are also special kitchens and toilets. It is suitable for use as a clothing factory, and it is also convenient for Xu Chen to guide and inspect every day.
Now that the house has been built, a group of carpenters have recently been working hard to build long wooden pieces, tables, chairs and benches. In addition, Xu Chen has also customized a number of tools in the carpentry workshop and foundry, including copper needles of various sizes, scissors, thimbles, cutters, etc.
sewing tools.
In addition, the garment factory not only makes clothes, but also leather armor, so Xu Chen specially customized a batch of punches, guillotines, whittling knives, copper hammers, crochet hooks and other tools specifically for leather processing.
While preparing the clothing factory and building these tools, Xu Chen also found time every day to design Forbidden Army uniforms, armor and official uniforms.
When it comes to fashion design, no one in Pakistan except Xu Chen knows how to do it.
Since the initial design and production of the first pair of linen shorts and Ye's skirt, the clothing styles of various tribes have basically not changed much over the years, except for the different lengths in spring, summer, autumn and winter, except for the dresses of a group of witches who were carefully designed by him
Apart from that, he rarely innovates in designing clothes.
It’s not that I don’t want to, it’s that it’s not necessary.
In the past, everyone had not had enough to eat, and when it came to dressing, they still stayed on the basis of wearing warm clothes in winter.
But after all, it has been eight years since the appearance of linen. In recent years, agriculture has developed rapidly, food has become increasingly abundant, and the popularity of linen clothes is now very high. As all aspects of clothing, food, housing, and transportation become better and better, the pursuit of clothing will gradually increase in the future.
Reflected.
Xu Chen believes that once the imperial uniforms and official uniforms appear, a new clothing trend will surely set off in various tribes.
Therefore, Xu Chen also revised the designs of these imperial uniforms and official uniforms.
At first, he really wanted to design the military uniforms into the style of the SS, but he was soon overturned by himself. It was not that it was too avant-garde, but that the production was too complicated, far beyond the current level of a group of people who just took the needle.
The ability and level of a woman who has only learned to sew clothes for a few years.
At present, the level is still limited to cutting the cloth into small and long styles according to the body size, and then using copper needles and hemp thread to roughly sew them together.
Although the level of technology has been improving in recent years, this progress is very small and is still far from Xu Chen's requirements.
Even if Xu Chen draws and cuts this kind of stiff uniform, and finally just sews them together, the ending will make people lose their teeth. The rough workmanship will eventually destroy the entire work, and the finished style will definitely be horrible.
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Later, Xu Chen also designed styles similar to the Chinese tunic suit and flying fish suit, but he eventually passed on them.
As the design drawings continued to change, the styles and styles of clothes also continued to retreat to the Song, Tang, Han, Qin and other dynasties, and eventually turned into simpler underwear and outer robes.
Because the robe has a simple structure, there are not many requirements except length and weight.
But after all, they are the clothes of the Forbidden Army, which represent the royal power and face. It is not good to be too simple. Therefore, after Xu Chen slowly modified it for a few days, this set of the Forbidden Army clothes was completely finalized.
Inside are the top and bottom pants, made of ordinary white cloth.
The outside is a dark blue coat similar to a medium-sized windbreaker, with a stand-up collar, buckles and a cowhide belt to tie the waist. A leather Imperial Army nameplate will be sewn on the left chest.
In addition to clothes, everyone will also have a hard leather hat like a cowboy hat, and there will also be a bronze cockade with a dragon pattern on the hat.
It also comes with a shoulder bag, dagger, water bag, waist knife, waist badge and other items.
On the feet are half-length leather boots.
Generally speaking, this is a kind of clothing that combines ancient and post-modern, Eastern and Western styles.
Putting them together seems a bit odd.
But this is also the design that Xu Chen feels is the best after continuous streamlining and improvement.
Simple, practical, generous and stable.
The most important thing is that this kind of clothes is suitable for fighting and riding horses, and it is relatively easy to sew. As long as a woman is a little more serious, she can complete the sewing work well.