Chapter 437: Taste of home, fish fillet and sashimi
Cao Shuang looked at Sun Luban who was still preparing the ingredients for fish dumplings and said with a smile: "Even if there are many restaurants in Luoyang, they sell fish dumplings.
But my husband still thinks that the fish dumplings made by only a few ladies are the most delicious. Even if the quality of the fish used to make the fish dumplings is not as good as those from famous restaurants outside, it still has the most homely taste."
Sun Luban continued to move his hands, and said with a sweet smile: "My husband is really good at making me and my sisters happy. My skills are not as good as those of the cooks in restaurants, but even if my husband's words are false,
It flatters concubines and sisters, but it also makes people feel comfortable listening to it.”
Jian Jia also smiled and said: "Husbands are good at lying. How can my cooking skills be as good as those of the cooks who specialize in cooking? It's just that the taste of home is real, and the food in restaurants outside is not."
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The earliest fish meat recorded in Chinese "Fish Products" was sashimi, and the first fish meat to enter the food market was also sashimi. Fish meat had already appeared in restaurants in the Eastern Han Dynasty.
In the Tang Dynasty, Yang Ye divided the fish suitable for sashimi into three classes in the "Shan Fu Jing"; the first class was only crucian carp, the second class was bream, bream, seabass, and the third class was bream.
Yang Ye’s views vary from person to person. Everyone’s tastes are different and cannot be generalized. After all, everyone’s preferences are different.
Du Fu ate the sashimi made from bream and praised it as "the fattest and most delicious bream". The Northern Song Dynasty poet Liu Xun also said that "the bream is as good as the jade carp and is the best". Wang Shixiong, a famous doctor in the Qing Dynasty, advocated that "herring is the best" when making sashimi.
"It is made with sesame oil and pepper, which is very delicious and appetizing."
Mullet, bream, and catfish are sea fish, carp, crucian carp, bream, green, bream, and wei, and bamboo are river fish.
Yellow croaker is a salty and freshwater amphibious fish.
Perch and bream are also marine fish, but during the reproductive season they migrate to freshwater to spawn, and their production areas are mainly in freshwater areas.
The above fish names are all ancient fish names and cannot completely correspond to the current fish names; the anchovy was also called anchovy in ancient times, and today it is called swordfish or wind tail fish.
Belongs to the family Sculpinidae.
The sea bass commonly sold in wet markets is a marine fish that is very different from the Songjiang sea bass and does not have the habit of migrating to inland rivers. It belongs to the family Sniperidae.
Looking at the fish breasts, Cao Shuang was reminded of the sashimi of later generations. Chinese fish breasts and Japanese sashimi are made from different materials, but they are both derived from Chinese fish breasts.
Due to geographical restrictions, most fish can only be used for sashimi. However, now it is inedible due to the discharge of Fukushima nuclear sewage into the sea, and it has become Fukushima sashimi. Most of the fish fillets are river fish or migratory marine fish in freshwater areas, which are contaminated.
The threat is smaller,
Japanese cuisine's steaks are strips of raw fish meat. Only pufferfish steaks and other types of steaks are cut as thin as paper and the pattern on the plate can be seen through.
In ancient China, it was very particular to cut the fish skin as thinly as possible. If it is further cut into thin strips, it is called "squid thread".
Cao Zhi's poem "Qi Qi": "The cutting of cicada's wings, dissect the fibers into tiny pieces. They are as tired as stacks of bamboo baskets, separated like scattered snow, flying lightly with the wind, and the blade does not turn to cut."
It is said that the cut sashimi is as thin as cicada wings, 縠 (wrinkled silk), loose as snowflakes, and light enough to flutter in the wind.
The special term for cutting sashimi: "斫荍".
When chopping the chopping board, cover the surface of the chopping board with white paper to absorb the fish juices squeezed out by the chopping knife.
Sashimi that is not wet on the surface can be placed loosely on the plate, and both looks and tastes good.
The sashimi is cut very thinly and very finely, and there is almost no juice on the white paper.
Du Fu praised this and said: "The paper has never been wet when it fell off."
Monographs on the art of swordsmanship have appeared very early.
At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Li Ye's "Purple Tao Xuan Miscellaneous Collection" tells the story of the Tang Dynasty's "Book of Claws", which lists the knife techniques of small Huangbai, Dahuangbai, dancing pear blossoms, willow leaves, counter-turning clams and butterflies, Qianzhang thread, etc.
The book also describes the selection and use of chopping boards, selection of raw materials, use of knives, condiments, cooking methods, etc. The dipping sauce is "soy sauce", which is a mixture of soy sauce and vinegar...
One of the seven ingredients of Jinyuguo, white plum is one of the ancient traditional foods. Before the invention of vinegar, it was the main sour seasoning and was essential when making soup.
Mei Yi said in "Guwen Shangshu" that "if you want to make a soup, you can only use salted plums", and salted plums are white plums.
After the invention of vinegar, white plums and vinegar coexisted for a long time and were eventually replaced by vinegar.
The method of making white plums is to soak the unripe green plum fruits in salt water overnight, and then expose them to the sun the next day and repeat this process ten times.
Cao Shuang knew that Suzhou later exported "salted plum embryos" to Japan and South Korea, which were low-salt products of white plums worth millions of dollars every year.
Japanese cuisine still uses a kind of salted plum, which is green plum pickled with salted perilla leaves. White plum and six kinds of ingredients are pounded into pieces, and mixed with good vinegar to make a paste.
The recipe for mustard sauce is also described in "Eight Wagons".
In ancient times, when serving fish dumplings, gold dumplings, mustard sauce and other condiments were put on separate plates with the sashimi, and the eater chose according to his choice.
"Qi Min Yao Shu" does not limit the use of fish in fish meat.
In ancient times, jinyuyu was still a collective term, and any silver sashimi with golden seasonings was called jinyuyu.
The name of a single dish made of golden and jade soup appeared in "Taiping Guangji" compiled by Li Fang and others in the early Northern Song Dynasty.
"Taiping Guangji" quoted from "Daye Supplementary Notes" Wu County's tribute to Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty included dried seabass and clams. They were soaked in clean water, wrapped in a cloth to drain the water, and placed loosely on a plate. They looked and tasted like fresh seabass.
Mix the sliced fragrant flowers and leaves with sashimi and garnish with fragrant flower spikes, which is called "Jinyu Yuyu" as "the delicacy of Southeast Asia".
Perch meat slices, green fragrant leaves and purple-red fragrant flower spikes are bright and eye-catching. The fragrant flower is listed as the traditional Chinese medicine Xiangrou in Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica".
Fresh plants of the common name Bee Weed have a strong aroma and have been eaten as vegetables for a long time in ancient times.
There are more than thirty species of plants in the genus Elephantus, with flower colors of bright yellow, light red, light blue, and deep purple. The aromatic flowers used in the genus Jinyu are the purple-flowered Haizhou Elephantia or Purple Flower Elephant.
In the 28th year of the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, Wang Changling traveled south to Xiangyang to visit Meng Haoran. At this time, Meng Haoran was suffering from back gangrene, which was a very dangerous disease in ancient times. Meng Haoran was about to recover after treatment by a good doctor, and he had to avoid eating fish.
Old friends gathered to host a banquet. On the occasion of the joyful occasion, the Xiangyang river delicacy, the check-headed bream, tasted unusually plump. Haoran abandoned the doctor's advice to "have a romantic banquet and eat fresh food quickly." However, Wang Changling did not leave Xiangyang and Meng Haoran died at the age of fifty.
Two years old.
This chapter is not finished yet, please click on the next page to continue reading the exciting content! Later Wang Changling felt very guilty. If Wang Changling knew that Meng Haoran died from eating fish, he would never let him use chopsticks.
The great writers of the Song Dynasty, Su Dongpo, Ouyang Xiu, Mei Yaochen, Huang Tingjian, and Fan Zhongyan all loved eating raw fish.
The female cook in Mei Yaochen's family has excellent knife skills and specializes in cooking fish.
Ye Mengde's "Records of Summer Vacation" records that Ouyang Xiu went to the streets to buy fresh fish every time he was on vacation, and went to Mei's house to have a female chef cook it for him.
Su Dongpo once wrote "Methods of Cooking Fish" when he was in Huangzhou: "In Huangzhou, it is better to cook fish by yourself. The method is: use fresh crucian carp or carp to cook and cook it under cold water.
Put the salt in the hall method, use the water spinach to brush it, and it will still become muddy.
Several white stalks of scallions should not be half-covered and cooked. Add a little each of ginger, radish juice and wine, and mix them thoroughly before adding them.
When it's almost ripe, add orange peel slices and eat it."
This method of cooking fish is still retained by the people of Meishan as "boiled fish", also known as "boiled fish in river water".
Cooking method: Remove the scales from the fish, disembowel it, remove the internal organs, make five cuts on both sides of the fish ribs, put it into boiling water and cook over low heat. Add ginger, onion, orange peel and other ingredients to the pot while cooking, and add salt when putting it in the pot.
The fish soup cooked over a slow fire is as thick and white as milk, and the fish meat is tender and smooth. This was the way to eat it created by Su Dongpo at that time, and it was called Dongpo Wuliyu or Dongpo Fish.
In the Yuan Dynasty, the court also had fish and shrimp dishes. The Mongolian imperial physician Hu Sihui recorded in the Yuan Emperor's recipe in "Drinking and Dining is Gathering Rare and Rare Delicacies" that the fish and shrimp were included in the menu. It was made from raw carp fillets, stir-fried shredded ginger and green onion with mustard.
, shredded radish and coriander, colored with rouge, and flavored with salt and vinegar.
Yuan Dynasty's "Food Opposites", "Food Poisoning", and "Fish Products" also discussed fish meat.
Yuan opera, a literary and artistic form, also contains fish meat content. In Guan Hanqing's drama "Wangjiang Pavilion Cutting Chicken Tomatoes in the Mid-Autumn Festival", Tan Ji'er pretends to be a fisherman and cuts fish meat for Yang Yanei.
Liu Kejiu's "Nan Lu Yue Jin Jing Hu Shou Shi" records "jade hands and silver silk".
In Ming Dynasty Liu Bowen's "Duo Neng Shi Shi": "The fish does not matter the size, freshness is the best. Remove the head, tail and belly, slice it thinly and lay it out on white paper to dry, then cut into shreds, mince the radish and ginger and mix with the fish.
Put it on a plate, mix it with lettuce, mustard and vinegar." At this time, people's consumption of fish and meat was not as popular as before, and it was far less popular than before.