Chapter 487: Sichuan Opera's Voice and Sichuan Cuisine's Soup
Boiling water cabbage, its name is not obvious, it is plain. Top 23S.
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When it comes to boiled cabbage, we have to mention the creator of this dish, Huang Jinglin, a famous Sichuan-style "Xianpin" chef.
Huang Jinglin, a native of the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, was a famous gourmet scholar with a wealth of knowledge.
He likes poetry, calligraphy, and is good at couplets. He wears a genuine royal chef with a bright blue top of the fourth grade of the Qing Dynasty. He is known as "the strange man of the contemporary era".
When it comes to cooking skills, he is undoubtedly the founder of the sect.
The "Old Chengdu Gong (Aunt's Feast) Restaurant" founded by Mr. Huang Jinglin became famous before the catastrophe.
Even Chiang Kai-shek once arranged a four-table banquet in his mansion. After the meal, he was so surprised that heaven and earth praised him so much that he ordered another four-table banquet the next day. Unexpectedly, the stubborn old Mr. Huang Jinglin refused.
"The rules for making reservations are to make reservations 3 days in advance, so it may be difficult to handle."
Chiang had no choice but to wait three more days. This was a joke among the locals, who said, "You can dominate the world, but you can't join the queue just like you are trying to make a living."
When Huang Jinglin passed away, Chiang was very sorry and personally sent him a banner, saying,
"The uncrowned king!"
Later, the public restaurant won many honors, too many to count.
For example, when the Domestic Trade Bureau personally reviewed "Famous Chinese Dishes".
There are a total of more than 3,500 famous dishes in the ** cuisine, and Gongguan alone has five exclusive dishes. You can see them all at a glance, and you can know how excellent the dishes in Gongguan are.
(If these are not enough for many readers to intuitively understand what Mr. Huang was worth at that time, then let me give you another example.)
There is a dish in Huang Jinglin's mansion called soft fried pancake.
Most people may have never heard of this dish. The raw material is pig intestines that are not suitable for the table. Naturally, they cannot be sold at a good price. However, it is the favorite of Xu Beihong, the master of traditional Chinese painting. He must order this dish every time he goes to the mansion.
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Not only did Huang Jinglin not dislike it, he adhered to the principle of "Master Zhuan Yiduo is my teacher" and improved this dish before serving it to guests.
Xu Beihong was very grateful. He splashed ink on the spot and presented him with a painting of a galloping horse as a token of his gratitude, which instantly caused a sensation in the art world.
(I don’t dare to think about Xu Beihong’s Ma Qi Baishi’s shrimp. Maybe this is the boss.)
Let’s talk about Huang Jinglin. He served at Guanglu Temple in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China, and created many delicacies for the Qing court’s imperial cuisine.
Among these dishes, "Zhang Tea Duck" was loved by Lafayette for its unique tea aroma, and was designated as a royal meal for the palace. It is also probably the first royal meal for the palace in Sichuan cuisine.
Whenever Lafayette entertains foreign envoys, he must order this dish.
(This is the chapter with the most brackets. I only talk about the dishes and nothing else. Thank you for your cooperation. All illegal comments will be deleted.)
Yes, "Zhang Tea Duck", not "Zhang Tea Duck" as it is mistakenly written now.
In fact, this dish is not smoked with camphor leaves, but with young tea leaves from Zhangzhou, which is why this delicacy is so delicious.
Because he was highly appreciated by Lafayette, Huang Jinglin received a fourth-grade crown and was admitted to the imperial dining room.
But the competition in the imperial dining room is equally fierce, with open and covert fire and smoke coming and going, which is quite inconsistent with the upright and upright character of Mr. Huang Jinglin.
In the Qing Dynasty, the most popular dishes in the palace cuisine were Huaiyang cuisine that was "harmonious, refined, fresh and new", and Sichuan cuisine was often derogated as "spicy, vulgar and rustic".
In order to prove the rumor, Huang Jinglin thought hard and tried hundreds of times, and finally created the best dish of "boiled cabbage". He reduced the complexity to simplicity, which not only established his reputation as a great master, but also made him a master.
All the royal chefs were shocked and speechless.
Even on the eve of the catastrophe, boiled cabbage's status as a fine dish for state banquets was still unshakable.
It's just that many of the dishes under his name that have attracted everyone's attention have now become extinct, which is sad.
...
As the saying goes, the flavor of Sichuan opera is the soup of Sichuan cuisine.
What this soup means is self-evident.
Any Sichuan chef must have the highest respect for boiled cabbage.
Boiled cabbage, the most important soup in Sichuan cuisine, was asked by Lin Chou to make it, and he was really "terrified".
Without him, the halo and glory attached to this dish alone can make any chef breathless.
Lin Chou took a deep breath and put on her apron.
The labels of boiled cabbage are "most complex" and "most simple", and the preparation work is outrageously complicated.
Take ham, ham, three-year-old hen, ribs, scallops, and clean lean pork, put them into a five-cup pot of boiling water and blanch the meat to remove blood, water, and impurities.
Take out the ice water and wash it, then add the five raw materials into another pot of water, add cooking wine, ginger, green onions, boil for fifteen minutes and then add the cooking wine again, simmer over low heat for three and a half hours, during which time
Continuously skim off the scum on the surface.
During this time, take the chicken breast and pork butt, peel off the skin, remove the oil and tendons, and beat them separately with an iron rod until they become pureed.
This knock lasted nearly two hours.
The sounds coming from the kitchen made the girls who were tasting other dishes curious.
"What are you doing?"
"Do you want to play drums..."
Pound the minced pork and chicken breasts into two large bowls respectively, add water and beat until pureed and set aside.
Wait for the soup in the pot to simmer for three and a half hours. Remove the ham, old hen, ribs, scallops, pork, green onions and ginger and discard them, leaving only the broth.
Set the soup pot to medium heat, and when it boils and the water starts to make a splash, pour one-third of the minced pork into the pot, and stir gently clockwise with a large slotted spoon, so that the soup in the pot becomes a whirlpool.
When the soup pot boils for the second time, use a large colander to remove all the cooked minced meat and discard it.
Sichuan chefs vividly call this step "sweeping the soup".
The soup stock is stewed with five raw materials, leaving many impurities in it. These impurities will not only affect the taste but also make the color of the soup mixed.
Therefore, the step of sweeping the soup is essential.
You also need to work carefully and not tepidly.
The fiber of pork meat is slightly thick. When it is put into the soup and spreads out and matures, it is like a dense network, which absorbs impurities and some fats and brings them out.
You have to use the same method to sweep the pork minced soup three times in total. After three times of sweeping the soup, the soup stock will be much clearer and reddish and slightly yellow in color.
But it's not over yet. The chicken minced meat that has been pureed with water is divided into three portions. This pot of broth still needs to be swept back and forth with the chicken breast meat.
Chicken breast meat is tender and almost tasteless, and it has a stronger adsorption capacity for finer impurities, oils, etc.
Sweeping the chicken breast into the soup once will have an immediate effect. It can immediately remove most of the myoglobin remaining in the soup when the fat and pork minced meat are swept into the soup.
After three times, the soup stock has turned orange-yellow, transparent and clear.
The minced chicken breast that has been swept into the soup needs to be used for the last time. Wrap the minced chicken breast that has been swept through the soup three times with layers of fine gauze, drain the water until it is half dry, and put it into the soup pot again.
At this time, turn to low heat and simmer for forty minutes.
This step is called "drunk soup".
After forty minutes, take out the gauze bag and discard it.
The soup stock at this time can be called a pot of "top soup".