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Chapter 66 Clothes

Generally speaking, it is not necessary to wear a crown when wearing ordinary clothes. You can replace it with a hairpin. Among Taoists, jade hairpins and wooden hairpins are the most common. The material determines the price.

Then there is the Taoist robe. This Taoist robe is not a Taoist priest's robe, but an extremely popular casual clothes. From the emperor to the common people, Taoist robes are regarded as one of the main clothing for daily wear.

The shape of the Taoist robe is: straight collar, big lapel, right hem, big sleeve cuffs, collar inlaid with collar protectors, slits on both sides, connected with hidden hems, with three pleats or no pleats on the hidden hem, and tied with a tie. It can be worn with a silk sash, a thin belt or a large cloth belt. During the Wei Dynasty, Taoist robes were already very popular and were almost a standard accessory for scholars. Because scholars knew many things, the world called them "Taoist robes". ", but it has nothing to do with Taoism.

Before the Daxuan Dynasty, the general trend of Taoist robes was that the sleeves continued to become wider, and large and long sleeves were favored by people. By the end of the Wei Dynasty, the "big sleeves" of the robes had developed to the point of being somewhat exaggerated.

In the earliest times, Taoist robes were as long as the shoes, and the sleeves were no more than a foot. Later, the clothes gradually became shorter and the sleeves became larger, reaching as short as the knees. The robe was dragged outside the robe, and the sleeves reached three feet. Then pile them on your boots.

In other words, the sleeves of the Taoist robe are so exaggerated that when you bow your hands, the bottoms of the sleeves can pile up to the top of your shoes.

When Daxuan conquered the world and the Taoist sect defeated the Confucian sect, changes were made to the Taoist robes. First, the wide sleeves were changed to narrow sleeves, and then the length of the clothes was slightly adjusted to facilitate movement.

The price of Taoist robes is also determined by the material.

Finally, there are shoes. During the previous Wei Dynasty, the shoes were very shallow, no more than an inch. Nowadays, the shoes are so deep that they can barely reach your mouth.

The so-called "芊" refers to prosthetic feet. In ancient times, there was a torture called "cutting off", which involved cutting off both feet of the prisoner. Therefore, there is an idiom "the lowly ones are the most expensive," which means that too many people have been subjected to the "cutting punishment", resulting in Shoes are cheaper, but prosthetics are more expensive.

Therefore, today's shoes are similar to short boots, using more materials, and the price has also increased, but the most important factor in determining the price is the material.

Qi Xuansu entered a clothing store called "Su Ji".

Hairpins, robes, and shoes are listed on the three walls, making it clear at a glance.

"What does this guest want?" The owner of the shop, a woman, stood behind the counter and asked proactively.

Qi Xuansu said: "I plan to buy a set of regular clothes, clothes, hats and shoes."

The landlady had a smile on her face, pointing to the various hairpins placed on the shelf behind her, and asked: "I wonder what kind of hairpin your guest would like? The most popular one recently is jade hairpin. This black jade dragon-shaped hairpin, as long as Twelve yuan of peace money, what do you think of the inn?"

As long as twelve yuan of peace money? It seems that the boss’s “as long as” is particularly unusual, Qi Xuan

Su was grumbling in his heart.

However, the expression on his face remained unchanged, and he said noncommittally: "Is the dragon shape too ostentatious? Or the Molong. Is there anything else?"

This is a very reasonable reason. Although Daomen slaughtered dragons, the imperial court still respected dragons in many places because it inherited part of the old system of the previous dynasty. In addition, Daxuan admired the black color. This kind of hairpin was used in Yujing. It's nothing, but it's easy to violate taboos when you arrive in the Imperial Capital.

The landlady didn't think too much, and pointed to another simple-looking black jade hairpin: "Where's this one? No matter it's the Jade Capital, the Imperial Capital, the Royal Court, or Loulan, there will be no taboos, and you should still go to Shui Dexuan.

The color, the disadvantage is that it is too bland, a bit unremarkable, and only costs ten yuan Taiping."

Qi Xuansu asked: "That's it."

Next comes the Taoist robe, which is the big head.

As the so-called silk and satin, silk is thin and can transmit light, making it shiny; Luo is light; silk is soft and has a uniform and delicate texture; satin is clear and beautifully woven.

The materials of Taoist robes are mainly silk and satin. Generally speaking, clothing materials such as silk and silk are the preferred materials of women. There is really no beauty in a man wearing looming clothes.

Qi Xuansu chose a dark blue satin robe, suitable for winter wear, which cost thirty yuan in Taiping coins. There were also corresponding lower garments and middle clothes, which cost ten Yuan in Taiping coins.

Qi Xuansu also chose a pair of square-toed shoes with black satin and silver edging. They were made of genuine silver thread and were decorated with broken jade. They cost fifteen yuan in peace money.

Qi Xuansu also bought a "gun case" for carrying handguns, which was more exquisite than the one issued by Tiangangtang. It cost five yuan of peace money.

In addition, there are folding fans, but considering the current season, Qi Xuansu was not in a hurry to buy such things.

This total cost seventy yuan of Taiping money. If Qi Xuansu hadn't just received the Taiping money, he would have been reluctant to squander it like this.

After Qi Xuansu paid, the landlady packed the clothes and asked thoughtfully: "Does the guest want a cloak? They are all genuine and have a one-piece hood, and they only cost 40 yuan Taiping."

Qi Xuansu took the package and politely declined: "Forget the cloak, I won't need it for the time being."

After Qi Xuansu left this clothing store, he went to a jade shop not far away and spent thirty yuan of peace money to buy a jade pendant that was in pretty good condition.

In this regard, Qi Xuansu

I don’t feel bad about Taiping Qian, because in addition to Buddhism’s preference for gold and gemstones, Taoism and Confucianism both prefer all kinds of jade. Therefore, jade pendants have stable prices and are very valuable. When they are short of money, they can be resold at a discount.

go out.

In this way, Qi Xuansu spent a full 100 yuan of Taiping money, and only 200 Taiping money was left.

Now Qi Xuansu somewhat understands why Zhang Yuelu said that money is not enough. For the word "respect", he has to spend too much money. If he buys another spiritual object that suits him, it will easily cost hundreds or even thousands of peace money.

The Taoist priests who offer the fourth grade of wine are also stretched thin.

Qi Xuansu returned home with new clothes, simply cooked a pot of porridge, and fell asleep.

The next day is the Xiayuan Festival on October 15th, which is Shuiguan's birthday. Jinque and Jiutang will organize various sacrificial activities, but Qi Xuansu has a rest today, so there is no need to participate.

He didn't get up until noon, put on the regular clothes he had just bought, bound his hair with jade hairpins, a white coat, a narrow-sleeved dark blue robe, satin cloud shoes, and put on a jade pendant, which gave him a completely new look.

When it was Shenshi time, Qi Xuansu left the house after packing up. As soon as he left the house, he met Taoist Cui.

It is said that a man relies on his clothes and a horse relies on his saddle. Qi Xuansu changed into new clothes. Taoist Cui almost didn't recognize him and said in surprise: "Tianyuan, I haven't seen you in two months. Have you become rich?"

"Aunt Cui is joking." Qi Xuansu said, "It's because the young lady from Tiangang Hall got her hair down and has plenty of money, so she bought herself a complete outfit."

Tiangangtang is not the Qingping Society. All income is earned openly and there is nothing that cannot be said.

Taoist Cui looked Qi Xuansu up and down and joked: "If a man knows how to take the initiative to groom himself, he probably has a girl he likes. Tianyuan, tell the truth, whose girl is she from? Is she a colleague you met at Tiangang Hall?

?”

Qi Xuansu waved his hands repeatedly: "Nothing, today happens to be the Xiayuan Festival, and there is a social gathering between friends."

Taoist Cui smiled and said: "In that case, go quickly, I have something to do."

Qi Xuansu's master, Qi Haoran, was a fourth-grade wine-offering Taoist priest at that time. Taoist Cui and Qi Haoran were friends of the same generation. Of course, they were not ordinary people. He was a fifth-grade Taoist priest back then, and now he has been promoted to a fourth-grade wine-offering Taoist priest.

When he was appointed, even if Qi Xuansu was promoted to the sixth rank of Taoist priest, he would still call him "Master Cui". It was only because of the relationship in his early years that he called him "Aunt Cui".

After Taoist Cui left, Qi Xuansu hailed a sheep cart and headed to Taishangfang.

Lower Bafang and Upper

The distance between Bafang and Bafang is really not short, and today is the Xiayuan Festival. People are coming and going on Shangqing Street and Yuqing Street. There are even lanterns hung on both sides of the streets, so even taking a sheep cart takes more than an hour.

It took an hour to reach the east gate of Taishangfang.

As soon as Qi Xuansu got off the sheep cart, he saw Zhang Yuelu walking out of the east gate.

Today, Zhang Yuelu also changed into regular clothes, but very conservative. The upper body is a sky blue waist-length double-breasted jacket, which is buttoned all the way to the neck. It can be said that it is tight. The lower body is a plain white skirt, and the skirt hangs down to the tread.

, only the round-toed shoes stick out from the hem of the skirt, and she is covered with a blue and white armor. Because she has not yet married, her hair has not been tied up, nor has it been covered with pearls, but is simply tied up with a wooden hairpin.

If this were during the Jin Dynasty, Zhang Yuelu's dressing up could only be considered ordinary. The reason why it is said to be conservative is because during the Wei Dynasty, the mind science emerged and replaced Neo-Confucianism. It no longer blindly suppressed human desires, so the world became more open.

.

By the end of the Wei Dynasty, it had developed to its extreme.

It is not strange for a man to dress in women's clothing, with lipstick, facial makeup, and red silk hair. The most unusual color is red and purple. He even wears a gold hairpin and a jade hairpin in his hair and wears a woman's red and purple skirt. There is a poem that goes: "The man is covered in women's clothes."

, they are all scholars.”

Women no longer bound their feet, dared to wear clogs, and dressed more boldly. They developed the "main waist" underwear, which is similar in shape to a vest. It opens backward and is fixed with a row of buttons or ties, forming an obvious waist.

The way to highlight your figure. Especially in the late Wei Dynasty, it was more common for women to wear close-fitting underwear outside. There were bold women who did not wear middle clothes and deliberately left the collar of their coat open to expose their waist.

When the Daxuan court replaced the Wei Dynasty, this trend was slightly restrained. At least the trend of men wearing women's clothing was stopped, but it still did not pay attention to etiquette and education. Although there is no such thing as "fashionable makeup" for women, the trend is

The customs are also extremely changeable. The length of tops and skirts is often reduced, and the styles of clothes are also narrow and wide. The clothes from all over the world are imitated in the imperial capital.

Nowadays, turbans are popular in the imperial capital, with straight collars and double breasts, slits at the armpits, short ones reaching the waist, and long ones reaching the knees. Many women do not wear middle clothes, only the main waist, and cover the turban, which will expose a piece of white on the chest.

It's greasy and has quite a legacy of Sheng Qi.

In this atmosphere, Zhang Yuelu's outfit, although elegant and simple, seems conservative.

However, Qi Xuansu was not surprised by this situation. In fact, based on his understanding of Zhang Yuelu, he even thought that Zhang Yuelu would wear men's clothing. This is also one of the trends today. After all, many women's clothing is too cumbersome to travel on horseback or fight with others.

, not as convenient as short-dressed men's clothing. When they went to Wugoshanli, Zhang Yuelu and Mu Jin were both wearing modified men's clothing. Now they are just more conservative, which is already very good.


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