Kang Shude didn't care what Ning Weimin thought about it, and let him digest it by himself and continue teaching.
"Up above the restaurant is the restaurant. A restaurant is also called a restaurant or a stir-fry restaurant. It is a mid-level position in the catering industry. In most cases, it is named after 'ju' or 'zhai'. The biggest difference between it and a restaurant
, in addition to the fact that there are more houses and more space, each restaurant has its own unique flavor and must have one or two signature dishes. In the past, there was a saying in Beijing that there were "eight major restaurants". Those were all relatively famous mid-range restaurants.
There are also Claypot House, Liuquan House, and Delicious House."
"Restaurants specialize in snacks, with stir-fried dishes and tables of banquets as their main means of profit. Therefore, they generally have private rooms and private seats. In addition, in order to attract customers, they will also have a sign in front of the door that says 'Seasonal snacks, feel free to drink.
, four seasons delicacies, north and south famous snacks' and other words."
"Needless to say, the profit of opening a restaurant is naturally much higher than that of a restaurant. So in order to attract more sophisticated customers, of course you need a good and lively location. Like Dashilar, Meishi Street and the Polishing Factory on both sides of Qianmen Street.
The meat market is the most concentrated."
"In those days, things like Houdefu, Jinguchun, Xinghuachun, Zuiqionglin, Xiaoyoutian, Enchengju, Yuexiangzhai, Nanweizhai, Bianyifang, and Judequan were all gathered here.
There are restaurants of this level near us. Many of them even have exotic flavors. For example, if the word "spring" is inscribed, you can tell it is a southern restaurant. There was also "Bada Chun" in Beijing. In the past, wealthy families often said "go shopping".
"A small market, listening to small plays, and eating in small restaurants." This small restaurant refers to this kind of restaurant."
"As for places higher than restaurants, those that serve the upper class are restaurants. Needless to say, restaurants are of course named after 'lou'. The former 'Eight Buildings' in our capital were the eight most famous restaurants. As for restaurants
The difference with restaurants mainly lies in three points. First, the location is better and the building is larger. Second, there are fewer private seats and more private seats. Third, the quality of the dishes in the restaurant is higher and more comprehensive."
"Anyone who opens a restaurant is always located in the best location in the downtown area. For example, Zhengyang Tower is right under the front door. Cuihua Tower is right in Wangfujing Bamiangao. You can almost see it at a glance from the street. The natural scale is not
Most of them are bungalows like ordinary restaurants, with scattered seats on the first floor and private rooms and private rooms on the second floor. There are more banquets sold by the table than in mid-range restaurants."
"As for the difference in dishes, that's the biggest. Each major restaurant must have a famous chef, each with its own famous specialty dishes. For example, Dongxing Restaurant's Yunpian Bear's Palm, Taifeng Restaurant's braised sea cucumber, Xinfeng Restaurant
Braised purple abalone with cabbage in the restaurant, big crabs in the Zhengyang restaurant, grilled prawns in the Chunming restaurant, stir-fried snails in the Donghua building, stir-fried squid in the Tongchun building, fairy whole duck in the Yuebin building, boiled pork in the Huiyuan building
Dan, the four kinds of fish from Zhimei Building, the braised fish breast from Wuhe Building, the fried eel shreds from Longyuan Building, the casserole fish lips from Cuihua Building...the materials are not only high-quality, but also difficult for others to match and imitate.
It takes unique craftsmanship.”
"That's not all. The key is that restaurants still have some unwritten rules. In addition to constantly updating the 'seasonal dishes' as the seasons change, such as pheasant neck (a kind of leek) in spring, pancakes and pancakes. In late spring and early summer,
Yellow croaker, large prawns, steamed anchovies. Ice cubes, fresh lotus seeds, crystal jelly, walnuts, lotus roots, water chestnuts in summer. River crabs with seven points and eight balls in autumn, mutton after the beginning of autumn, chrysanthemum pots and assorted pots in winter, Chinese New Year
In addition to pan-fried meatballs and rice noodles with meat, major restaurants must also have the ability to provide more than 50 general dishes to guests at any time for banquets or catering."
"I don't know if I can remember them all, but I'll just give you a rough idea. There are braised shark's fin, braised agarwood, white fungus soup, mandarin fish, hibiscus chicken fillet, five fillet fish, olive fish fillet, and milk soup.
Vegetables, (Nonnaiko) yam, soft fried pork belly, braised north and south, crystal elbow, honey-cured lotus seeds, double crispy, roasted sea cucumber with green onion, sea cucumber and crab noodle, eight-treasure roasted pig, shredded yam, chicken and cauliflower, pot-roasted cabbage,
Braised assorted vegetables, braised shrimp, braised claw tips, shrimp and winter bamboo shoots, braised fish fillet, braised eel, carp in sauce, braised fish fillet, braised chicken, braised meat pie, braised pork slices with cabbage, braised fat duck, three slices of Oriental
, Pot stickers with golden chicken, straw hat pigeon eggs, mushroom soup, abalone soup, fruit soup, chicken ball soup, braised winter bamboo shoots, mushroom crispy rice, breaded shrimp..."
Good guy! Ning Weimin was almost dumbfounded as soon as the old man spoke out his mouth-like menu.
Especially when he was listening and counting on his fingers...
Be good! There are more than fifty kinds of them.
So the admiration comes completely from the heart, and the thumbs-up is completely true.
"Master, you are so awesome! You can remember so many dishes? You... this is as good as the cross talk "Reporting the Name of the Dish". You are really a good eater! To be honest with you,
As for the common dishes you mentioned, I have never heard of many of them, let alone eaten them..."
Unexpectedly, Kang Shude shook his head frequently and laughed.
"Hey, what kind of eater am I? In fact, I haven't eaten many of the dishes. The reason why I can remember it is because I used to follow Mr. Song as his long-term follower. This is one of my errands.
.”
"The real boss is Mr. Song. Because he always has to go out to socialize, and he has to invite guests after dinner. When Mr. Song wants to reserve a table or order a caterer, he often points me to run errands. It takes a long time to deal with the dealer.
Of course, I have to remember these things so that Mr. Song can use them as a reference when ordering a table and choosing dishes."
"So I am a verbal gourmet. When it comes to eating, I just eat to my satisfaction. I see a lot and eat less. Of course, after all, following Mr. Song, I get a lot of glory. I often get some foreign food.
For example, when Mr. Song entertains guests, I go around the kitchen and so on, and any extra food goes into my mouth."
"There are also the folded baskets left on the table. I have tasted all those good things. Even if I go out for a banquet, the chicken and duck racks and broth provided by the kitchen can at least take care of me. And with the money I earn, I can eat out.
It’s a small restaurant with local flavor. My own consumption level is basically lower than that of an ordinary restaurant. I’m just saying this to you, kid.”
Ning Weimin suddenly realized, but he still wanted to praise him.
"That's not easy. You have so many treasures, it's like a walking dictionary for Qinxing in the capital. Mr. Song may know a lot of famous dishes and know a lot about the details, but when it comes to the management of these large and small restaurants,
The situation may not be as good as yours."
Kang Shude was happy again, but this time he was really tickled.
"You're a good talker, and you really know how to say nice things. But there is some truth in what you say. Who is Mr. Song? A person who does big things, a person who talks about fun, naturally he won't pay much attention to these mundane things.
pay attention to."
"What he cares about when eating is the origin of the dishes, the texture of the ingredients, the cooking techniques, and the socializing at the dinner party. He does not have time to care about the little things inside and how the restaurant is run."
"We would also have dinner together at the same table, either because it was a special season and there was something fresh, or he would take me to a small restaurant when something happened to make him happy. Often at this time, he would teach me how to taste food and wine. But I have to go
When he goes out to the city to do errands and has a meal at a restaurant or teahouse on the way back, or buys some snacks to go with his wine, he has to rely on me. The levels are different."
This last sentence mentioned levels, which made Ning Weimin couldn't help but be touched and thought about his own affairs.
So after being stunned for a while, he chased after her and asked out the doubts in his heart.
"Old man, what you are talking about today is every word, and it has given me a lot of insights. But up to now, I heard you say that although there are different levels from small to large, this restaurant is already high-end enough. It has been connected.
Bear paws, sea cucumbers, shark's fins and bird's nests are all mentioned above. How can this restaurant be higher than shark's fin? People just eat these delicacies. I can't think of a restaurant that can compare with a restaurant.
What a big difference..."
"Haha!" Kang Shude laughed immediately after hearing this, "Okay, I haven't forgotten my own important things. You are asking me to make fun of you. Come on, I won't give you any excuses. I have laid the groundwork for you.
It's time for us to see the truth. Actually, it's very simple. What makes a restaurant better than a restaurant? It's the word 'ostentation'."
"Pomp?" Ning Weimin was puzzled and frowned.
"Yes!" Kang Shude confirmed again and then explained in detail.
"The reason why restaurants are about pomp and circumstance is mainly because banquets are different from banquets, and banquets are also different from banquets. What you eat at home is called homely meals, which focus on smoothness, comfort and intimacy. What you eat in restaurants and restaurants is called casual banquets.
Pay attention to taste and gather to talk and drink, talk about current affairs, business affairs, knowledge, or build up feelings. Eating at a restaurant focuses on appearance, etiquette, communication and a sense of ritual. It is called an official seat, which is what is called today
banquet."
As soon as he said these words, Ning Weimin's eyes suddenly lit up, and he finally understood the meaning of the old man's words.
Just listen to Kang Shude continue to speak.
"Fanzhuangzi is the highest level and largest among the restaurants. Most of them are marked by the suffix 'tang', and are called 'tang'-sized restaurants. There is a saying in Beijing that there are 'eight halls'. Restaurants like this
Generally, there is a spacious quadrangle with many entrances. The rooms are spacious and bright, and the courtyard is clean and quiet. There is often a garden, stage or theater building where you can listen to plays, tour and watch."
"Why do we need such a big place? Because everyone who comes to the restaurant to entertain guests will have tables and sets of formal banquets. Most of them are birthdays, full moons, weddings and funerals, birthday celebrations, group worship, spring wine, etc.
There are dozens of tables, hundreds of tables, or at least ten or eight tables, just for greetings, seeing off, etc. At least there are only three or two tables."
"All kinds of utensils in a restaurant are particularly exquisite in order to show their solemnity. Tables and chairs must have elegant table surrounds and chairs. Bowls, plates and tea sets are all made of fine porcelain, even gold, silver and jade. The tableware is also better than that of a restaurant.
There are not only chopsticks, spoons, but also knives and forks. The knives are for eating barbecue. If the chef does it for you, you don’t need to put them. The forks are necessary. Unlike Western forks, Chinese forks are thin and straight.
There are silver and copper ones, and they are specially used for eating fruits and snacks. Chopsticks are not allowed."
"Almost all the dishes at Fanzhuangzi are high-sounding dishes, and the heat has nothing to do with it. The time it takes to cook these dishes does not matter at all. There are many kinds of dishes that can be cooked in one pot and eaten immediately.
Risheng. It can also be prepared a day in advance and is steamed and cooked right when you eat it. The emphasis is only on the fragrant and soft texture, not the freshness. What the customers care about is only the number of sets and good appearance."
"If we talk about the serving procedures, it's like four fresh fruits, four dried fruits, and four cold meats. Ordinary banquets can be canceled or reduced as appropriate, but the official banquet is different. You must make up this number, which is called a table dish. And according to the
The rule is that the twelve plates must be placed high enough for the guests to take their seats before the banquet can begin. After the banquet begins, there are usually four dishes to serve with wine, and they can be stir-fried, such as stir-fried diced chicken, braised shrimps, fried kidneys, etc.
Fish fillets or something. But it must be hot, and no soup is allowed, so no bowls are used, only seven-inch plates."
"The last 'Four Seas' is the main course for the official banquet, which is what the saying goes as 'delicacies from the mountains and seas'. Such as bird's nest in clear soup, shark's fin with sweet-scented osmanthus, eight-treasure duck, sea cucumber roasted with green onion, fish maw in white sauce, white fungus with rock sugar, etc."
If there are bird's nests, it's a bird's nest mat. If there are shark's fins, it's a wing mat. If there are both, it's a swallow's fin mat. If there are ducks and shark's fins, it's a duck's fin mat. But it's said to be the Four Sea Bowls.
But in fact, the number can be from four to one. The most important thing is that there must be more salty dishes than sweet dishes, or at most an equal amount. There must never be more sweet dishes than salty dishes.”
"In addition, sea bowls are the main ingredient, and braised bowls are the supplement. This kind of dish has a wide range of raw materials, and both seasonal vegetables and water dishes can be used. Like braised shredded chicken, braised fish maw, braised peas, braised duck feet, braised winter bamboo shoots, braised wild rice, etc.
Crab roe, sugar-roasted chestnuts, etc. Each dish is served in a small bowl with a diameter of three or four inches. No plates are allowed. Eight, six, or four can be used. The important thing is that it cannot be served alone, it must be served with the main course of the sea bowl.
Each sea bowl should be accompanied by two or four stew bowls. And the taste should be consistent with the main dish. If the sea bowl is sweet, the stew bowl must also be sweet. If the sea bowl is salty, the stew bowl must also be salty."
"At this point, the wine should be almost finished. Since we have been drinking, eating and chatting for a long time, we are afraid that the guests will be hungry, so at this time we have to serve rice noodles and snacks, always two. However, the ingredients and methods are optional, steamed, fried,
It can be boiled or roasted. After that are four large bowls, which are probably some soup dishes, such as Dongpo pork, lion head, braised three slices, and braised fried tofu. They are specially meant for eating, so they are also called meals.
As soon as the dishes are served, eating follows, which is the end of the banquet process. In other words, the standard official banquet should end here."
"It is worth mentioning that due to the nature of banquets that require advance reservations, there are also cold restaurants and hot restaurants. Although the cold restaurant has a facade, it is not open on weekdays and has no fixed chefs, waiters, or even furniture.
There are no countertops. After the guests reserve the size and date of the banquet, they will temporarily hire a "Kouzi Chef", and the leader of the Kouzixing Chef will take care of everything. Needless to say, Leng Zhuangzi usually works in remote places with inconvenient transportation.
Adopt such a business strategy.”
"And Rezhuangzi is a good location. It is open every day and has fixed chefs and waiters. In addition to hosting large banquets, it often also prepares a restaurant or some single rooms to entertain scattered customers. Therefore, Rezhuangzi is also
It will be like a big restaurant, with some unique specialty dishes. For example, Juxiantang’s fried ring bell double sauce, Fushoutang’s green-covered shark’s fin, and Tonghetang’s Tianlai duck feet.”
"In short, in the past, the customers that big restaurants focused on were government departments, dignitaries, celebrities, big businessmen, etc. What they eat is a sense of ceremony and nobility. It must be lavish and luxurious, so as to create a sense of wealth.
It’s a decent occasion. But if you really want to eat delicious food, it’s not very suitable to go to a restaurant. On the contrary, small restaurants and restaurants have this advantage, and you can see cooked dishes and delicate dishes.”
"Speaking of which, I still remember that Mr. Song once spent 400 yuan to treat a friend to a 108-course banquet of Peking Fangshan, which was exactly like the menu eaten by Emperor Qianlong. And his evaluation may be helpful to you.
Useful. Mr. Song said to me at the time, "I can't say it's not delicious, but the taste of each dish is almost the same. It's probably because the imperial chefs always use broth and mushrooms for seasoning. Although the taste is extremely fresh, every dish tastes delicious."
What's the point of doing this for all kinds of people? The only surprising skill is that they can write calligraphy on the dishes. They say longevity is endless, the world is peaceful, and the presentation and shape are extremely beautiful. This is different from the way Westerners like to leave characters on their snacks.
The style of writing is somewhat similar, but the method is undoubtedly much more sophisticated."
Kang Shude's words lingered in Ning Weimin's heart for a long time.
His mind was spinning and digesting over and over again, and he completely lost his mind.
I don't know how long it took, but he let out a long breath, and his heart suddenly became clear, just like the clear blue sky and white clouds outside.
Not only did he finally know which address he chose was the most suitable.
It was even like an enlightenment, and I understood many additional things.
For example, why is it that No. 87 Tiantan North Road is used to open Yushan Restaurant, but it can't cover Beihai Fangshan and Tingli Restaurant?
In the end, it almost reached the point of barely surviving.
He has now figured out that it was not for any other reason than that there was not enough pomp and space.
In the past, Yushan operated the restaurant as a restaurant, and its foothold was actually focused on individual customers and casual dining.
But the food in the restaurant is inherently inferior to the taste in restaurants.
Do you have exquisite dishes? Do you have fire-heated dishes? Do you have unique skills?
What you have is just the fabricated gimmick of the "Manchu-Han banquet" and the historical and cultural background of the formal official banquet.
Unfortunately, these advantages were not brought into play and were all suppressed.
And why are those two time-honored brands, selling roast duck and selling steamed buns, already world-famous, declining day by day and becoming more and more bleak?
That's because one is just the appearance of an ordinary restaurant, and the other is even the foundation of a restaurant.
They actually betrayed their customer base with this little skill and insisted on making money from the restaurant, or even the restaurant.
Of course that is wishful thinking! Virtue is not worthy of it!
Don’t blame anyone but yourselves for confusing your positioning and forgetting your roots!